TR: Northwest Ridge of Four Gables

Dates: Saturday, January 14 – Sunday, January 15, 2012

Locations: Peak 12,542 and the Northwest Ridge of Four Gables

Climbers: Jon & Nick

Photos: As noted (with some processing edits on a couple of Jon’s shots from Nick)

Synopsis: With Tioga Pass continuing to remain open, the lack of snowfall this year continued offered a unique opportunity to those so inclined: access to long, granite alpine rock routes with minimal amounts of snow in otherwise “Winter” conditions. By “Winter” conditions I mean (i) very short days, (ii) very cold temperatures and (iii) very strong winds.

Jon and I were itching the entire week to undertake a true winter alpine route that would involve a bivy at a high altitude. We combed through the High Sierra Secor Guide looking for route descriptions. Our search had a couple of parameters. First, since we were coming from the Bay Area on Friday, altitude was a key factor. We were hesitant to bivy up around 13,000 ft. + on Saturday night for fear of getting absolutely worked by the altitude. Second, the weather report was not looking promising. While Saturday day and night called for great conditions, Sunday was anticipated to deteriorate rapidly with a very strong wind event moving in (with Sunday night expecting sustained 100+ mph winds along the High Sierra Crest).

TR: North Couloir, North Peak

Date: Saturday, January 7, 2012

Location: North Couloir of North Peak

Climbers: Brandon & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Brandon, with some processing edits from Nick)

Synopsis: While the lack of snow in the Sierra has delayed the start of ski season, it has also offered a historical statistic of sorts – namely, Tioga Pass is currently open in January. According to data compiled by the Mono Lake Committee, since 1933 Tioga Pass has only been open six times post-December, with the former record being January 1 in 2000. Being an optimist of sorts, I was excited as this offers easy access to the High Sierra for one approaching from the West side of the range.

Brandon and I had our eyes set on the classic alpine climb of the North Couloir of North Peak (12,242 ft). With the lack of snow and constant cold temps at that elevation, we were hoping that the North Couloir would possibly continue to hold ice conditions – although we were actually expecting hard neve. In either case, the chance to climb the North Couloir in January with a mostly snowless approach in winter weather conditions (think (i) cold and (ii) very windy) sounded too good to be true.

TR: Cascade Falls

Date: Saturday, December 24, 2011

Location: Cascade Falls

Climbers: Jon, Rachel, Tony & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted)

Synopsis: First, let me say that wanted to get this up much sooner to offer some good beta on current Tahoe ice conditions, but a hectic schedule around the holidays prevented that. So unfortunately I can’t attest to whether this is representative of the current conditions at Cascade Falls (e.g., there has been a rain event and general warming spell as of late).

Having said that, although Tahoe (and pretty much all of California, Utah, Wyoming and Colorado) has received little to no snow, December proved to be a very cold month. Consistent cold temperatures and lack of snow make for good ice conditions in Tahoe (as fickle as they can be).

While climbing up at 90-Foot Wall with Brandon the week prior, we spotted Cascade Falls from the road and it looked very thick. After some more research, I got some good beta on conditions, so Jon, Rachel, Tony and I decided to head and check it out.

TR: Winter Cragging at 90-Foot Wall & Full Lunar Eclipse

Dates: Sunday, December 4, 2011 (Climbing) & Saturday, December 10, 2011 (Lunar Eclipse)

Locations: 90-Foot Cliff, South Lake Tahoe & San Francisco Bay

Climbers: Brandon & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted)

Synopsis: With the severe lack of snow in the Tahoe and High Sierra this early December due to (among other things) a high-pressure ridge sitting off the coast of California, Brandon and I decided to test the weather last Sunday for some winter-cragging in the Tahoe area.

Our original intention was to head to the Leap and test out how cold it really was, but we were quickly dissuaded by the shaded aspects, strong winds and below freezing temps. Therefore, we headed over to 90-Foot Wall in the Emerald Bay area for a good top-roping zone in the sun.

As a bonus, this past Saturday was a full lunar eclipse that was best viewed in the Western U.S., with the peak occurring at 6:30 A.M. PST. Given that the next full lunar eclipse will not occur until April 2014, I felt the need to get up and combat the light pollution of San Francisco and try and capture the event.

TR: Corrugation Corner & Bear’s Reach – Lover’s Leap

Date: Sunday, October 23, 2011

Location: Lover’s Leap

Climbers: Alex & Nick

Photos: Alex & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: With the snow of the early October 6th storm long faded into memory and recent warming temps, I knew Sunday would make for a good day trip to the Leap. After many suggestions by myself and others, Alex has recently taken up climbing, with his first foray into outdoor climbing at Indian Springs and Donner Summit earlier in August.

With the stable weather and Alex fired out to get out of the climbing gym and back outdoors, I knew a Leap trip was in order. And with Corrugation Corner (5.7) and Bear’s Reach (5.7) on the agenda, I would dare to say that is about as good as it gets for a first trip to the leap for Alex! A nice welcoming to the world of exposure…

TR: Hetch Hetchy (Rancheria Falls)

Dates: Saturday, October 8 – Sunday, October 9, 2011

Location: Hetch Hetchy, Rancheria Falls Trail, Yosemite National Park

Hikers: Sarah & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted)

Synopsis: Sarah and I had originally made plans to head over Tioga Pass to the Eastern Sierra and head down to Convict Canyon to hike up into Lake Genevieve and Lake Wit-So-Nah-Pa with views of Red Slate Mountain. We were hoping to get great views of the changing leaves in the high country and the solitude of Convict Canyon.

Unfortunately, on Wednesday-Thursday a strong storm from the PNW moved across Northern and Central California and dropped 1-2 feet of snow in the upper elevations across the Sierra above 8,000 ft. While Tioga Pass did open on Saturday, reports of an abundance of snow up high had caused us to change our plans earlier in the week.

Ultimately, we both wanted to stay out of the snow and this gave me the excuse to head to Hetch Hetchy – and area I always wanted to explore but frankly just drive right on by every time I am heading into the Park or the Eastside.

TR: Matthes Crest

Date: Sunday, September 18, 2011

Location: Matthes Crest, Yosemite National Park

Climbers: Jon & Nick

Photos: Jon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: After a successful trip on the Northeast Couloir of Mount Gilbert the day prior, Jon and I headed on yet another early alpine start for some ultra-classic climbing on Matthes Crest. Matthes Crest is one of the most unique climbs I have ever done. Approaching from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, Matthes Crest is a very unique granite knife-ridge that was glacially formed. Although it is only about 500 vertical feet from the ground, the knife-ridge itself runs for over a mile long. Similar to most parties, we climbed to the North Tower and rapped from the dedicated rap rings.

Ultimately, it rightly deserves its recognition for its classic status, offering awesome climbing, great exposure and unbelievable views.

TR: Mt. Gilbert – Northeast Couloir

Date: Saturday, September 17, 2011

Location: Mt. Gilbert, Northeast Couloir

Climbers: Jon & Nick

Photos: Jon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: After arriving back from Europe the prior day (and Jon separately also arriving from Spain the prior day), Jon and I headed down to Bishop to once again give a go at the North Couloir on Mt. Gilbert (13,106 ft.). Last year we headed down much latter in the alpine ice season, and after a foot of snow fell, avalanche conditions were unsafe and lead to the Triple Skunk on each of the North Couloir on North Peak, the North Couloir on Mt. Gilbert and the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson.

Fortunately, this year we headed back earlier in the season without snow on the approach and the weather was great. We ended up climbing the Northeast Couloir as it was more sustained without a burnt-out middle section, but now we both want to go back and climb the North Couloir proper. I guess we still have time this season!

Unlike the Triple Skunk , the approach was entirely dry well up onto the glacier just below Mt. Gilbert. Therefore, the approach was much faster (by several hours) and we made good time.

TR: Climbing, Paragliding, Photography and General Touristy in the French & Swiss Alps

Dates: Wednesday, September 7 – Thursday, September 15, 2011

Locations: Geneva, Chamonix & Annecy, including the Arête des Papillons – Aiguille du Peigne, Chamonix

Synopsis: Sarah and I headed over to the Swiss and French alps for an amazing trip, including first-time visits for each of us to Geneva, Chamonix and Annecy. I was extremely fired-up to visit Chamonix, THE Alpine Climbing and Skiing Mecca. While in Chamonix, I was able to link up with Tahoe-local Ben Mitchell for some climbing. Ben is an AMGA/IFMGA guide from Truckee that guides in Chamonix in the summer months (as well as for Alpine Skills International in Truckee in the winter and Points North Heli Skiing in Alaska, among other guiding pursuits). Ben and I climbed the classic Arête des Papillons on the Aiguille du Peigne in Chamonix.

Most importantly, the trip was a perfect combination of relaxation, sightseeing/photography and trilling adventure (including paragliding from the Plan Praz station heading towards the Plaques du Brévent) with the most amazing travel companion in the world!

While this TR does contain some amazing climbing and paragliding shots from Chamonix, I also just wanted to showcase some of the amazing sites and views presented during the entire trip in chronological order.

TR: Stately Pleasure Dome, Dozier Dome & Pywiack Dome – Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl. Park

Dates: Saturday, August 27 – Sunday, August 28, 2011

Locations: Stately Pleasure Dome, Pywiack Dome & Dozier Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park

Climbers: Brandon & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Brandon)

Synopsis: Brandon and I headed up to Tuolumne Meadows for a great weekend of climbing on some classic multi-pitch dome routes: (i) Great White Book on Stately Pleasure Dome, (ii) Holdless Horror on Dozier Dome, (iii) Zee Tree on Pywiack Dome and (iv) Errett Out on Dozier Dome. The weather was great and the scenery spectacular.

I also got to try out my new camera for shots from the ground (as I would never climb with this thing): a Canon 60D with a Canon 15-85mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. All climbing shots (and shots from the summits) are with my much smaller Panasonic LX-3.

On the drive in Saturday morning, the skies were very overcast and there was some very sporadic rain (in quantity, location and time-lapse). We got a little worried, as rain + granite slab = no fun. However, the rain didn’t seem to impact the Tuolumne area (other than about 2 minutes of very light rain over Tenaya Lake) and the skies eventually cleared up during the day.

TR: Indian Springs & Donner Summit

Dates: Saturday, July 30 – Sunday, July 31, 2011

Locations: Indian Springs & Donner Summit

Climbers: Alex, Colin & Nick

Photos: Alex & Nick (as accredited) – although virtually 99.9% of the shots in this TR are Alex’s

Synopsis: Ultimately, this was a great weekend of moderate climbing with some good buddies. I honestly haven’t gotten out much this summer due to a pretty hectic schedule of work, travel, moving and other commitments. Everything always balances out, however – so I was just excited to be able to get out over this weekend. Other than a great day at the Leap climbing Surrealistic Pillar over Fourth of July weekend, this would only be by second climbing outing this summer.

I was really pumped as well given that (i) this was Alex’s first time outdoor rock climbing (as he only recently began climbing in the gym) and (ii) I had not climbed with Colin in over a year due to his skiing injury.

TR: Sonora Pass

Date: Saturday, June 11, 2011

Location: Sonora Pass

Skiers: Rachel, Andrew, Brandon & Nick

Photos: Andrew, Brandon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: May in the Sierra is my favorite month. Typically, the days are long, the snow is consolidated and predictable corn, the weather is stable and the mountain passes are open making for easier trips to the Eastern Sierra. After such a big snow year this winter, we continued to get “plagued” by additional late season snow and low-pressure windows. It didn’t feel right to complain about snow and low pressure, but frankly, I was internally grumbling most of May. With work obligations and the like, I found myself trying to squeeze in weekend trips that would get shut down by weather.

Fortunately, Enginerd and I were able to pull off a quick stealth mission into the Evolution Range in between weather cycles in early May. Unfortunately, that was the only skiing I did the entire month.

After that, I would read reports of 100 mph winds on the High Sierra, mountain passes being shut down due to new snow or rock fall, and the like. Honestly, I was just ready to move on to climbing season and packed the ski stuff up.

All week I was debating with Brandon whether to just go climbing on Saturday or give Sonora Pass a chance. The weather looked hit or miss with the potential for clouds and no re-freeze the night before. With the ski stuff packed, it was a hard decision at the time to pull it out. Fortunately, we made the right call.

Mega TR: Evolution Loop (inc. Goddard & N. Couloir on Lamarck)

Dates: Tuesday, May 10 – Friday, May 13, 2011

Skiers: Jon & Nick

Photos: Jon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: Over a four day period in between weather windows, Jon and I completed the classic High Sierra ski tour, the Evolution Loop. In addition to the classic tour plan, we added in side trips to Mt. Goddard and the North couloirs on Mt. Lamarck. The Evolution sub-range of the Eastern Sierra is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful areas of the entire Sierra. During our four days on the tour, I would consider this belief to stand true.

Note that this TR is four pages long, with each page dedicated to each day.

Pages: 1 2 3 4

TR: Yosemite Valley Spring Run-Off

Synopsis: Sarah and I headed for a quick weekend trip to Yosemite Valley to check out the large waterfalls given the huge winter snowpack this year. I have never been to Yosemite Valley to see the spring run-off. More importantly, I was very excited for the trip as this was Sarah’s first time in Yosemite. Although it was too short, Sarah really enjoyed walking around the Valley and I am sure it is the first of many trips.

Photos: Nick

TR: Cross Couloir, Mt. Tallac & Angora Peak

Dates: April 9 –10, 2011

Locations: Cross Couloir, Mt. Tallac & Angora Peak

Skiers: Alexis, Clement, Warren & Nick

Photos: Alexis, Warren & Nick (each as noted below)

Synopsis: Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on how you view it) one of the joys of ski touring is dealing with variable conditions. After amazing corn skiing in Carson Pass Last Sunday, the warm cycle continued for most of the week leading up to a pretty strong re-freeze Wednesday night. A small low-pressure system then moved in, dropping 3-6 inches of fresh snow along the upper elevations of the Sierra Crest on Thursday and Friday. Yes, that is one of the few times this winter we are talking 3-6 inches rather than 3-6 feet.

While we headed out on Saturday to ski steep lines in a bit of powder, what we found was steep lines in quintessential “dust on crust” conditions. While the ski conditions were essentially nothing to write home about, we still had a great day both days.

Pictures to follow. Note that this TR is several pages long, with the Cross Couloir on Page 1 and Angora Peak on Page 2.

Pages: 1 2

TR: Carson Pass & Alex’s Return to the BC

Date: Sunday, April 3, 2011

Skiers & Rider: Andrew, Alex & Nick

Location: Carson Pass

Photos: Andrew, Alex & Nick (as noted)

Weather & Snowpack: This winter in Tahoe has been unreal in the volume of snow, and in some cases, record setting. According to Tahoe Weather Discussion, for the month of March up to and including March 28th, “8-16 feet on the resorts in the last 10 days of non-stop snow, 11-21 feet in the past 2 weeks, and 13-23 feet in the month of March.”

Once the snow stopped on March 28th, that week brought a rapid warming trend. Unfortunately, nights were not refreezing so the snowpack was not transitioning to corn snow. After several days of heavy glop due to the warm days and nights, on Saturday night, April 2nd, we finally received what we had been waiting for – a very strong refreeze of the snowpack due to well-below freezing nighttime temps and a clear night for some radiational cooling of the snowpack.

As a result, Sunday we awoke to a strong refreeze, warming temperatures (capped around 40F) and blue-bird skies – the perfect combination for rapid corn snow growth.

Synopsis: Andrew, Alex and I headed out to Carson Pass in search of corn. Ultimately, our tour ran approximately 9.8 miles on skis, with approximately 4500′ of vertical ascended and 5200′ of vertical descended. Most importantly, this was Alex’s first day back in the backcountry following a full recovery from some spontaneous lung collapses last year. A proud welcome back indeed!

Pictures to follow. Note that this TR is several pages long.

Pages: 1 2

TR: West Shore – Tahoe (2-27-11)

Date: Sunday, February 27, 2011

Skiers: Jonathan, Rachel, Warren, Alexi & Nick

Weather & Snowpack: Sunday was the perfect combination of bluebird and a relatively cold day for Tahoe. In addition, it was several days after a great Alaska-formed storm delivered 3-4 feet of fresh, light powder along the Sierra Crest in Tahoe. Fortunately, the snowpack stablized very quickly despite the cold temps.

VIDEO TR: A nice video of the tour along the West Shore on Sunday.

Some additional photos from Saturday at Alpine follow.

TR: Eastern Sierra Ice Climbing – Lee Vining Main Wall & Horsetail Falls

Dates: January 22-23, 2011

Climbers: Jon, Rachel, Tony & Nick

Locations: Lee Vining Caynon, Main Wall & June Lake, Horsetail Falls

Video & Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted)

Synopsis: We headed down to the Eastside over the weekend to take in some Sierra ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon and Horsetail falls. Lee Vining Canyon Main Wall was in good shape with thick ice and cold temperatures on Saturday. On Sunday, we headed down to Horsetail Falls in the June Lake area. Unfortunately, recent warm weather and sun exposure from the prior week had melted out many of the flows and the ice was fairly hollow. Alternatively, we hiked around to a North-aspect, mini-flow and worked on ice screw placements, anchoring, etc…

All in all, a great weekend of climbing with a good group!

This TR contains both a Video TR and Photo TR.

TR: Breaking Trail – Silver Peak

Date: Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Skiers: Colin & Nick

Location: Silver Peak (Tahoe Backcountry)

Summary: Colin and I headed out to the low-angle trees near Silver Peak for some storm day skiing. We skinned up an access road and through low-angle meadows with the intention to ski low angle trees and avoid any avy terrain (due to avy conditions). Upon reaching the intended zone, a weather system moved in and visibility went to around 5 feet, so we simply turned around and headed back to the car.

Still a fun day in the mountains, breaking trail through beautiful surroundings.

Here is a short video entitled “Breaking Trail” (my attempt at being artsy) – music is included.

TR: It Has Begun – Ultra Deep November Pow

Location: Kirkwood Mountain Resort, CA

Date: Sunday, November 28, 2010

Skiers & Boarders: Jon, Alex & Nick

Location: Kirkwood Mountain Resort, CA

Photos: As noted

Synopsis: Quite simply, this was just plainly the most ridiculously awesome opening day to a ski season I have ever experienced. The fact that it took place in November further emphasizes the fact.

From Friday, November 19th – Thanksgiving Day, the Tahoe Basin was lucky to receive one of the largest November snow storms on records. Six to eight feet of snow fell depending on the location and altitude – not including wind-loading along the Crest. Then during the late stages of Saturday, November 27th, another 16-24 inches of snow fell in Tahoe. The end result was Jon, Alex and I hoping in the car Sunday morning, and heading to Kirkwood for what we expected to be some ridiculous conditions… in November.

The pictures pretty much tell the tale…

TR: North Peak, Mt. Gilbert and Mt. Thompson – The “Triple Skunk”

Locations: Plan “A” locations included the North Couloir on North Peak (12,242 ft.) and the North Couloir on Mt. Gilbert (13,106 ft.). Plan “B” locations included either the North Couloir on Mt. Gilbert or the Harrington Couloir on Mt. Thompson (13,494 ft.). Actual locations were the basin of Mt. Gilbert and Mt. Thompson.

Dates: Friday Night, October 29 – Sunday, October 31, 2010

Climbers: Nick & Jon (and Brandon for the first hour of Friday night!)

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Jon)

Synopsis: When travelling in the alpine zone, one’s plans are largely dictated by weather and conditions. Flexibility is the key in my mind. Set forth below is a chain of events that started with a plan developed over the course of the work week, weather monitoring, a change of plans and then further plan changes up through the entire weekend.

Ultimately, this TR is mostly an account of our plan changes and a bunch of scenic pictures – as alas, nothing was actually climbed. Would I depict it as a “failure” of weekend, absolutely not. Any weekend spent in the High Sierra after a beautiful coating of snow is amazing, regardless of what is accomplished. Therefore, this TR is an account of a great weekend, in cool area I had not been, and depicts some mountain decisions that I am proud of. It always feels good to know that you recognized unfavorable conditions and made the decision to back down.

TR: Sierra Alpine Weekend – Part II – West Ridge of Mt. Conness (VonTrap Style!)

Locations: High Sierra of Yosemite National Park – Tenaya Peak, W. Ridge of Mt. Conness and the approaches in between (including Ragged Peak & Young Lakes)

Dates: Saturday, September 25 – Sunday, September 26, 2010

Climbers: Nick & Jon

Photos: Nick & Jon (as noted)

Weather: Both Saturday and Sunday were bluebird skies, with 0% chance of precipitation. During the day, weather was in the mid-60s on both days, with nighttime lows in the mid-30s.

Synopsis: As the week began to pass, I could sense the stars aligning and a sequence of events shaping up that would miraculously enable me to climb two ultra-classic, High Sierra alpine routes of varying difficulties (in both exposure, technical climbing and approach commitment: the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya Peak and the West Ridge of Mt. Conness.

Note: Sierra Alpine Weekend – Part I – Tenaya Peak (Northwest Buttress)

TR: Sierra Alpine Weekend – Part I – Tenaya Peak (Northwest Buttress)

Locations: High Sierra of Yosemite National Park – Tenaya Peak, W. Ridge of Mt. Conness and the approaches in between (including Ragged Peak & Young Lakes)

Dates: Saturday, September 25 – Sunday, September 26, 2010

Climbers: Nick & Brandon

Photos: Nick & Brandon (as noted)

Weather: Both Saturday and Sunday were bluebird skies, with 0% chance of precipitation. During the day, weather was in the mid-60s on both days, with nighttime lows in the mid-30s.

Synopsis: As the week began to pass, I could sense the stars aligning and a sequence of events shaping up that would miraculously enable me to climb two ultra-classic, High Sierra alpine routes of varying difficulties (in both exposure, technical climbing and approach commitment: the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya Peak and the West Ridge of Mt. Conness.

Note: Part II – West Ridge of Mt. Conness (VonTrap Style!)

TR: Una Mas Tiempo – Chilling in Nevada (Nevados de Chillan, Chile)

Location: Nevados de Chillan, Chile (f/k/a Termas de Chillan)

Dates: August 29 – September 4, 2010

Skiers & Boarders: Ken, Jon and Nick (as well as some special appearances by Claire and Travis)

Photogs: Nick (unless otherwise indicated as Ken, Jon or Claire). I was pissed though as I dropped by good camera off of a climb in Yosemite several weeks ago, so had to roll with my old backup. Oh well.

Weather: August 29th and 30th dropped about 1.5 feet of fresh Andean pow. Skies went bluebird for the next 2 days, with cold temps at night to keep the snow soft. Avy conditions were stable in the surrounding side-country and backcountry. More snow fell on September 2 (about 5-6 inches).

Synposis: Jon, Ken and I were scheduled to head down with CASA Tours to ski and board the main areas North of Santiago (Arpa, Portillo and Tres Valles). Ken and I had done this same trip 2 years prior with CASA with great success (with an abundance of fresh snow, a fun group, good guides and untracked BC-zones).

Last year, Jon, Ken and I were scheduled to head down to Bariloche only to get skunked by horrible conditions at the last minute. Dave, the owner of CASA, was cool to call us several days prior to our flights and give us a heads up on the turn of conditions (a warming spell brought a lot of rain, followed by a deep freeze creating boiler pack all over Patagonia). After discussing alternatives, Dave was supremely cool and refunded our money.

Looking to go back down again this year, we turned to CASA again due to the logistical advantage they offer with transportation, lodging and familiarity with good BC terrain. We were all really impressed with Dave’s flexibility with our cancelled Bariloche trip the year prior.

Once again, the flexibility of the CASA team proved invaluable. We were scheduled to head to the Northern areas again – but based on obvious weather conditions and thin coverage, we shifted down to the South to follow the snow. Large storms were scheduled for Chillan during our visit so the decision to switch it up proved a no-brainer.

Note: This Trip Report is several pages long – just click at the end of each page to continue.

Pages: 1 2

TR: Cathedral Peak – Tuolumne Meadows (Yosemite)

Date: Saturday, July 24, 2010

Climbers: Colin & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Colin)

Weather: The forecast called for the dreaded “High Sierra 20% chance of thunderstorms after 11 A.M.” Therefore, based on past experience of watching the thunderheads develop along the Sierra Crest at a rapid speed, we knew that it was inevitable it was going to rain. Just call it a feeling.

Add in the fact that Cathedral Peak is essentially an overgrown granite lightening rod, we planned on a very early start with the goal towards descending before any storms hit. As noted below, we essentially satisfied the goal (although we were only 1/3rd of the climbers’ trail down when the lightening and hail hit…)

Synopsis: In my humble opinion, Cathedral Peak offers some of the best alpine rock climbing in Yosemite (if not one of the best moderate alpine routes in the country!). Such a great climb: (i) fun and scenic approach, (ii) good routes with plenty of alternate ascent options, (iii) a spectacular summit and (iv) amazing views.

Colin and I drove up from the Bay Area on Friday night and camped out in the Golden Arrow area. After an alpine wake-up and the remainder of the drive to Tuolumne Meadows, we were on the trail early and moving at a fast pace. I believe we made the approach from the car to the base in exactly one hour.

TR: Dozier Dome; Pywiack Dome – Tuolumne Meadows

Dates: Saturday, June 26 – Sunday, Jun 27

Climbers: Nick & Colin

Photos: Nick & Colin (as noted)

Weather: Both Saturday and Sunday were absolutely gorgeous. Highs in the mid-60s, lows in the upper 40s. Interestingly, on the drive back to the Bay Area on Sunday evening, we saw some massive thunderheads growing up by Sonora Pass. Given the temps of 102 in the Central Valley, this was not particularly surprising. Notwithstanding the crazy warm temps at lower elevations, Tuolumne was super pleasant.

Synopsis: With a spell of warm weather recently and after some beta received re: approach conditions on SuperTopo, it seemed as if the climbs around Tuolumne were drying and the snow was melting. Colin and I decided to head up and climb some moderate multi-pitch dome routes. All in all, there is still a good amount of snow on many of the larger alpine routes (e.g., Mt. Conness, North Peak, Tenaya), but the lower domes in and around Tuolumne were *relatively* dry (except for Dozier Dome – more on that later) with snowless approaches.

TR: Lover’s Leap – Bear’s Reach, The Line & Hogsback

Location: Lover’s Leap, South Lake Tahoe

Date: Saturday, June 13, 2010

Climbers: Nick, Jon & Jon’s friend Rachel

Photos: Nick, Jon & Rachel

Weather: Amazing day, as usual. Clear skies, with a decent breeze. The morning started out pretty crisp (in the low 50s), but gradually warmed with the rising sun to around the low 70s.

Synopsis: Jon and I had plans to get up in San Fran at 4:00 AM and hit the road for the short drive up to South Lake Tahoe, and hit the smooth granite at the Leap. I had been up the weekend before with my buddy Brandon, and being desperately hung over, we climbed Pop Bottle (5.7) on the East Wall and Deception (5.7) on Hogsback.

On plenty of sleep and sans a hangover, Jon and I had more ambitious plans, which would largely be dictated by how crowded the Leap was. We wanted to try and climb the following combo:

1. Bear’s Reach (5.7) on the East Wall
2. East Wall (5.7) on, well, the East Wall
3. The Line (5.9) on, you guessed it, the East Wall
4. Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) on the Lower Buttress

TR: Memorial Day – La Parte del Día – Float Fishing the Lower Sac

Location: Lower Sacramento River, Redding, CA

Date: Memorial Day, Monday, May 31, 2010

Anglers: Pat & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Pat)

Weather: Intermittent clouds throughout the day. It was raining up in the mountains by Mt. Shasta (and snowing up top), but we avoided the rain all day. A nice 15 mph breeze in the evening.

Synopsis: After skiing 1.5 ft of untracked, fresh pow up at Leavitt Peak at Sonora Pass on Saturday , I headed North to Mt. Shasta late afternoon on Sunday. Pat and I would camp around 5,000 ft. on the approach to Mt. Shasta, and then head down to the Lower Sacramento River in Redding on Monday to float fish with our guide Bryan from The Fly Shop .

Guest TR: Memorial de Mayo en la Gran Sierra Nevada! 5/29 – 5/30/2010

Nota Especial: This Guest TR is written by Alex, one of the Lunaticos Dementes listed below – his words with the pics provided by the Fotografos listed below.

Fechas: Mayuary 29 & 30, 2010

Localidads: Las Pasadas de Sonora y Tioga, California

Note: This Guest TR is several pages long – just click at the end of each page to continue.

Pages: 1 2 3

Mega TR: AK Range, Kahiltna Glacier – Glaciers, Crevasses and Alpine Goodness

Locations: Denali National Park – S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, including summits of Control Peak Tower (8,670 ft / 2,643 m) and Mt. Francis (10,450 ft / 3,185 m)

Dates: Thursday, May 13 – Thursday, May 20, 2010

Photos & Video: Nick

Weather: It’s the Alaska Range, so expect the unexpected as I have come to find out. Generally, we really lucked out with the weather and had perfect climbing conditions and bluebird days on our 2 summit days. We only encountered white-out conditions (and only partial days) during 2 of our 8 days on the Kahiltna.

Temperatures fluctuated greatly during the day depending on the amount of cloud cover and wind, and temps were generally relatively cold at night.

Synopsis: After skiing the Sierra High Route and climbing and skiing Mt. Williamson with Jon, the end of my May would be spent in and around the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, located in Denali National Park.

While we do have some smallish glaciers (e.g., the Norman Clyde Glacier around the Palisades and the Whitney Glacier on Mount Shasta) here in California, I was craving a forum to formally learn the technical aspects of large-scale glacier travel and crevasse rescue. As I fully intend on making trips into the Alaska Range in the future, I felt it was the best location to take such a course. A beautiful setting with heavily glaciated terrain – it fit the ticket perfectly.

Note: This Mega TR is several pages long – just click at the end of each page to continue.

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TR: Mt. Williamson (14,375 ft / 4,382 m)

Location: Mt. Williamson (14,375 ft / 4,382 m), Eastern Sierra

Dates: Friday, May 7 – Saturday, May 8, 2010

Skiers: Jon & Nick

Photos & Video: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Jon)

Weather: Both days were bluebird, with warm temperatures and no wind on Friday, but a 20-30 mph wind up high on Saturday.

Avalanche Conditions: We did not encounter any instabilities in the snow pack on the ascent or descent. The snow is undergoing a strong freeze/thaw cycle (although cold winds on Saturday kept much of the snow from significantly thawing).

Synopsis: After finishing the Sierra High Route, my plan was to meet Jon and ski both Mt. Tyndall and Mt. Williamson. However, after skiing along the Tyndall Plateau on Day 5 of the SHR, I did not think the North Couloir on Tyndall was worth the massive approach to get back there. While it is an aesthetic line, Jon and I would rather save Tyndall for summer climbing on the East face.

Therefore, our plans were changed to only ski Mt. Williamson, the 2nd tallest peak in the Sierra.

Note: There are several pages to this TR.

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Mega TR: Sierra High Route (West to East)

Locations: Sierra High Route

Dates: Saturday, May 1 – Thursday, May 6, 2010

Skiers: Geoff, Barry, Mike & Nick

Photographers: All photos in this TR were taken with my camera. Most were taken my me, but the pictures of me were taken by other members of the team.

Synopsis: We were embarking on the Alpine Skills International (“ASI”) 2009 6-day Sierra High Route, from West to East. The trip would be lead by Geoff Clarke, an ASI Guide and former Chief Telemark Examiner for the PSIA.

The planned route crosses the Sierra Nevada over 9 high cols and passes, beginning at old Wolverton Ski Resort on the edge of Sequoia National Park and ending at the valley floor outside Independence (off 395). The planned route starts at approximately 7,200ft., climbs to around 10,000ft. and holds the line between 10,500ft. and 13,000ft., until dropping down on the Eastern side of the Sierra.

I attempted the same route last year with Geoff, but we turned around near Copper Mine Pass due to High avalanche conditions.

Based on Geoff’s running GPS, we traveled approximately 47 miles and climbed over 17,000 of vert over the course of the 6 days.

Note: Each Day is on a separate page, and the bottom of each page has a link to the next day.

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TR: Crescent Moon Couloir & The Sisters (Carson Pass)

Location: Crescent Moon Couloir & The Sisters, Carson Pass

Date: Saturday, April 17, 2010

Skiers: Jon & Nick

Photos & Video: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Jon)

Weather: Bluebird and warming – really a perfect day. By 1 PM on the skin back to the car, it was nearing the 60s around 8,000 ft.

Avalanche Conditions: From the Sierra Avalanche Center:

Early this morning, avalanche danger is Low for all elevations and aspects. Pockets of Moderate danger will form at all elevations on E-SE-S-SW-W aspects in response to daytime warming. Very isolated areas of instability may exist on northerly aspects. Normal caution is advised.

During our tour, Jon and I did not encounter any instabilities.

Synopsis: With the call for good weather, stable avalanche conditions and the promise of wintry snow at higher elevations that do not get any sun, Jon and I decided to head to Carson Pass and ski Crescent Moon Couloir as the primary objective. With an abundance of other options and easy access, we intended on skiing other lines in the area as well, but giving ourselves an easy bail if the snow got too warm too quick.

Other than a vital gear mishap in a somewhat exposed spot, the day was awesome.

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TR: Halls of the Gods Couloir, Indian Cliff Chutes (Angora Peak)

Location: Halls of the Gods Couloir, Indian Cliff Chutes (Angora Peak)

Date: Saturday, March 6, 2010

Skiers: Bob & Nick

Photographers: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Bob)

Weather: On Saturday a small Low system was moving through the Tahoe region. Skies were grey-bird, with light winds out of the E/SE. Around mid-afternoon, light snow showers quickly move in and out of the area (with little to no accumulation).

Synopsis:

After hitting Halls of the Gods Couloir last year with Frank and Coling in very good snow conditions TR Here, I knew I had to get back during good snow conditions. Only this time, definitely better to take the appropriate route up the ridge between Angora and Echo Peaks. Shaved off a good amount of time (at least an hour and ½) off the approach time.

TR: Almost 30 Years in the Desolation Wilderness Backcountry (Dick’s Peak, Janine’s Ridge, Maggie’s Peaks)

Locations: Dick’s Peak, Janine’s Ridge, Maggie’s Peaks (Desolation Wilderness)

Dates: Saturday, January 30 – Sunday, January 31, 2010

Skiers/Riders: Alex & Nick

Photographers: Nick, unless noted as Alex (although Alex’s shots pretty much blow mine away! Time for me to get a new camera and learn how to use it…)

Weather: Saturday was the tail end of a small Low system that was moving through Tahoe. Skies were grey-bird with intermittent, light snow. Winds started the day slow, but were howling up at Dick’s Peak. Temps at night got to around 10-15 degrees at 9,000 ft. Sunday was blue-bird and generally warm, although once again the ridge top winds at Dick’s Peak were consistent 30 mph. Janine’s and Maggie’s had no wind, fortunately.

Avalanche Conditions:
From the Sierra Avalanche Center:

On Saturday, near and above treeline, pockets of moderate avalanche danger will form in wind loaded areas on NW-N-NE-E aspects, 37 degrees and steeper. Below treeline, avalanche danger is low in wind protected areas.

On Sunday, near and above treeline, pockets of moderate avalanche danger remain on wind-loaded, NW-N-NE-E aspects, 37 degrees and steeper. Below treeline, avalanche danger is low in wind protected areas.

We found the snow to generally be very stable at both Maggie’s and Janine’s. As discussed further below, Dick’s was very wind-effected and in most areas had 6-inch wind-slabs sitting on lower density snow. We were able to ski cut and otherwise trigger some small, very slow moving wind-slabs on Dick’s N face.

Synopsis: With Alex and I both about to turn the dredded 30 (me, well, today actually, and Alex on Friday), we figured a good early present would be to get back into Desolation Wilderness and get in some powder skiing. Nothing better than avoiding the fact you are turning 30 by essentially continuing to “live the dream” so to speak. Was a great trip and a good early present.

Warning: There are a lot of scenic pics in the TR, but some great skiing ones near the end as well.

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TR: Storm Day Skiing at Alpine Meadows

Location: Alpine Meadows

Date: Saturday, January 23, 2010

Skier/Boarder: Nick & Kenny

Photographers: Nick & Kenny (as noted)

Synopsis:

This past week, Tahoe got on average 6-7 feet of snow from Sunday-Friday. With Matt, Kenny and Dan in town for the weekend, we headed over the Alpine Meadows on Saturday to partake in some of the snow.

It was continuously snowing both Saturday and Sunday, so I only have few pictures from Saturday at Alpine.

TR: Tahoe Grab Bag – Kirkwood, Carson Pass & Mt. Rose Backcountry, Alpine Meadows

Locations & Dates:

Kirkwood – Thursday, December 31, 2009

Carson Pass Backcountry – Thursday, December 31, 2009 – Friday, January 1, 2010

Mt. Rose Backcountry – Friday, January 1, 2010

Alpine Meadows – Saturday, January 2, 2010

Skiers: Nick & Jonathan

Photographers: Nick (except as otherwise noted as Jonathan)

Synopsis:

With the holiday weekend approaching, our original intention was to go on a 2-day tour on Thursday and Friday with some resort skiing over the weekend. As Thursday approached, however, it became clear that a weather system would be moving in on Friday that may make backcountry conditions suspect.

Therefore, our *first* set of modified plans was to ski Kirkwood on Thursday, skin into Carson Pass on Thursday night and camp and then ski various shots off of Roundtop, Elephants Back and possibly Red Lake Peak around Carson Pass on Friday. As noted below, the weather did not cooperate and we modified our plans accordingly.

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TR: Yosemite Valley Thanksgiving

Location: Yosemite Valley

Dates: Thursday, November 26th (Thanksgiving) – Friday, November 27th

Climbers: Jon & Nick

Jon and I decided to head to Yosemite Valley to do some climbing over Thanksgiving. This was a trip of firsts for me, including:

1. This was my first time climbing in Yosemite Valley. To any climber, this is a huge development. I hope this to be the first of many trips in the future.

2. This was my first time climbing since I tore my meniscus in September. I had plans of grander this Fall to make many trips to the Meadows and the Eastside, all of which were derailed by my knee injury. After a lot of PT and still potential surgery, I felt it was time to “test the knee” so to speak.

3. This was my first time climbing on Thanksgiving. Last year I was skiing powder at Mammoth Mountain over Thanksgiving. This year, I thought climbing took the lead (no pun intended!).

4. This was my first time climbing with Jon. Jon is far and away a more experienced climber and a good friend to make the trip with. Enthusiastic, willing to teach and, most importantly, willing to down grade the routes we were on to fit my abilities (both from an injury standpoint and leading standpoint).

On to the trip….

TR: John Muir Wilderness, Hidden Lake

Locations: John Muir Wilderness, Dutch Lake & Hidden Lake

Dates: October 10, 2009 – October 11, 2009

Hikers/Fishers: Colin & Nick

Photographers: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Colin)

Colin and I decided to head out into the John Muir Wilderness for a brief weekend hiking and fly fishing trip. I recently tore my meniscus as well as additional cartilage damage, and Colin currently has a leg like the terminator resulting from a broken tib/fib/ankle accident at Squaw last winter.

Needless to say, we are both gimps but wanted to get out of dodge deep into the Sierra. The result: Kaiser Pass Road. Kaiser Pass Road is a seasonal, single-lane paved road that ventures up to Thomas Edison Lake and Florence Lake. Sitting at approximately 7,500 ft., Florence Lake is accessible by car but serves as a jump-off point for several trailheads.

TR: Yosemite High Country (7-31-09 – 8-2-09)

Locations: Conness Creek, Roosevelt Lake, Yosemite National Park

Dates: July 31, 2009 – August 2, 2009

Hikers: Andrew, Jared, Kevin, Matt & Nick

Photographers: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Kevin)

Went on a 3-day, 2-night backpacking and fly-fishing trip in the high country of Yosemite National Park . Included trips cross-country through Conness Creek Drainage and up to Roosevelt Lake in the shadow of Mt. Conness.

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TR: School House Rock, Donner Summit (“Junior High Crack” Route)

Location: School House Rock, Donner Summit

Date: July 25, 2009

Climbers: Jared & Nick

Photographer: Nick

School House Rock is one of the many climbing areas in and around Donner Summit in North Lake Tahoe. We got up to the base of School House Rock around 8:15. There was one party starting the first pitch of Junior High Crack and no one on Kindergarten Cracks.

After looking from below, Kindergarten Crack didn’t look too interesting (although I am sure it is fun), so we waited for Junior High Crack. Only had to wait about 1/2 hour because the guys in front of us were pretty fast.

Another group came while we were waiting and climbed Mary’s Crack.

Mega TR: Sierra High Route (5-2-09 – 5-7-09)

Locations: Sierra High Route

Date: Saturday, May 2, 2009– Thursday, May 7, 2009

Skiers: Geoff Clarke, Craig Dostie, Nori & Nick

Photographers: Nick (except where otherwise noted as Craig or Nori)

Synopsis: We were embarking on the Alpine Skills International (“ASI”) 2009 6-day Sierra High Route, from West to East. The trip would be lead by Geoff Clarke, an ASI Guide and former Chief Telemark Examiner for the PSIA.

The planned route crosses the Sierra Nevada over 9 high cols and passes, beginning at old Wolverton Ski Resort on the edge of Sequoia National Park and ending at the valley floor outside Independence (off 395). The planned route starts at approximately 7,200ft., climbs to around 10,000ft. and holds the line between 10,500ft. and 13,000ft., until dropping down on the Eastern side of the Range.

As discussed more in detail below, the night before the trip approximately 8-12” of new snow fell above 8,000ft. On the tail end of our second day, near Copper Mine Pass we encountered High avalanche conditions, forcing us to spend the night. When the conditions had not improved the next morning, we turned around to Table Meadows and set up a base camp – skiing some great lines for the remainder of the trip.

The ASI East to West group lead by Peter Leh was able to make the crossing as conditions had improved by the time they hit Copper Mine Pass.

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TR: Matterhorn Peak (3-28-09 – 3-29-09)

Locations: Matterhorn Peak – Skiers Dream Chute and East Couloir

Dates: Saturday, Sunday, March 28 – Sunday, March 29, 2009

Skiers: Frank & Nick

Photographers: Nick (except where otherwise noted as Frank)

Weather: Saturday was fairly warm, with highs in the 40s. Late Saturday night, the winds picked up (with gusts in the 40-60 mph range were we camped at approximately 10,000 ft.). Temps dropped to about 15 at night, and then Sunday the high was in the mid-30s.

Avalanche Conditions: We found the snow to be very stable. During the skin in through Horse Creek drainage, there were signs of past wet snow point release slides from earlier in the week. However, temps were not high enough to cause any concerns for wet instabilities.

The snow in the actual couloirs (both North facing) was a combination of some wintry pow, but mostly wind affected. On the ski out on Sunday, we found good corn below 10,000 ft..

TR: Hall of the Gods; Angora Peak (3-8-09)

Locations: (1) Hall of the Gods, Indian Cliff Chutes and (2) Angora Peak to Angora Lake

Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009

Skiers: Frank, Colin D. & Nick

Photographers: Nick (except where otherwise noted as Frank or Colin D.)

Weather: Started out warm and partly-cloudy in the morning. As the day progressed, the skies became overcast, temps dropped and the wind picked up. Around 3:30 on the top of Angora Peak, wind was gusting strong out of the SW, W.

Avalanche Conditions: From the Sierra Avalanche Center: Near and above tree line on open, wind-loaded slopes 37 degrees and steeper, isolated pockets of MODERATE avalanche danger could develop on NW-N-NE-E-SE aspects. Below tree line, avalanche danger is LOW.

We found a stable snow pack. Some loose-snow sluffs on steeper aspects, but that was the only visible instability. On shaded northerly aspects, from boot to knee-deep soft powder. Lower elevations and southern aspects had a breakable crust.

TR: Silver Peak (1-3-09)

Location: Silver Peak, CA

Date:  Saturday, January 3, 2009

Skiers:  Colin & Nick

Photographer: Nick

Weather:  Clear skies, intermittent clouds, temps from 15-30

Avalanche Conditions:  LOW, with pockets of MODERATE on N-NE aspects over 37 degrees (from the Sierra Avalanche Center).  Our observations while skiing indicated a strong snow pack.  No serious sluffing or visible signs of slabbing.  N-NE aspects did have a slight rain crust about 6 inches down (from overnight rain on Jan 1st) with powder on top (from Jan 2nd storm).  S aspects had pockets of sun crust on the top by mid day.